I was given this recipe at the workshop. There are a few things I would like to point out to everyone. I was still hesitant in using the sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) as it does burn skin and it is an irritant. This recipe has the smallest amount possible for this sized batch. I have found out, there is NO WAY possible in making soap without it. By adding the sodium hydroxide, which is an alkaline to the oils, it is what causes the saponification. Saponification is when the oils, from their liquid form, starts to look cloudy and thickens. It happens as you're blending or stirring the mixture.

Having looked into this, I have found the high level of sodium hydroxide drops week to week as it is curing. If left for a full 6 weeks (I prefer 8 weeks), the sodium hydroxide neutralises within the soap. Therefore, it won't irritate sensitive skins.

This is the most natural soap recipe you will find. It is classed as Castile soap (Olive oil). Castile soap is the finest soap. It is named after the Castilla region in Spain, an area abundant in olives.

Most companies whom "make and sell bulk to the people" also add sulphates to their soaps. This soap is SULPHATE-FREE. Sulphates are another irritant to skin, so this is another plus for making your own soap. They also add many "unnamed" chemicals to their soap because it gives their soap a longer shelf span! Something to think about next time you're in the supermarket in need of soap.

The quality of the oil you use doesn't really make too much difference as the oil won't contain preservatives or additives no matter what part of the olive it is made from. The texture and softness of the soap are the things you'll possibly notice physically. I used a higher grade oil, as my children use the soap I make. This choice is yours.

Finding your essential oils to add can be fun. Just remember there are high, middle and low notes in their scents. When used in an oil burner you'd notice the high notes burn off first, then middle, then low. The same goes for the ones added to your soap. If using too many high notes, be wary that they may burn off when you add them to the mixture because of its heat. Then you'll be left with no scent in your soap! Trial and error is the best thing for this. Also try not to use too much of the cloves, cinnamon, turmeric.. spices like that, as they can be an irritant to some peoples skin (especially childrens).

An excellent first mould for your soap is a 1-litre milk carton. When you know you're going to be making soap, buy some milk in the 1-litre cartons. When you've finished them, wash or rinse them out. Let them dry standing upside down. These are ideal for using as a soap mould. They're already lightly waxed inside so the soap doesn't really stick badly; they're an excellent long square shape that is easy to cut into wonderful looking rough hand-made blocks of soap!

When adding dried herbs, seeds, flowers, empowered water etc, the same rule applies with the oils. Don't add something that will be an irritant to peoples skin. This is trial and error also. Rose petals turn brown when drying in the mixture, as does lavender. Try chopping up the petals or herb finely before adding it, so it's not in big chunks throughout the soap. Experiment with adding different seeds for a loofah effect also. Oats are fantastic in soap. Add a slightly grounded oat, and you'll love how soft your skin feels after using the soap.

It may seem a bit daunting when you look at everything you need in the equipment, but most of it you probably already have in your kitchen. You can find alternatives also that will do just as well.

That’s about it for now! If I think of anything else to add, I'll put it up then! Until then, if you decide to make your own soap, I wish you well and hope you enjoy it!

Love & Peace